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Ohia at Waiahole Uka

Posted: December 21, 2009

We climbed to Puu Kipapa in the Koolau Mountains by scaling a steep narrow ridge in the back of Waiahole Valley on the windward coast of Oahu.

The climb to Puu Kipapa (elevation 2,786 foot) from Waiahole was pioneered by Dayle Turner in 2002.  His initial attempts were up a ridge with a more gradual ascent on the left side of the photo below.  This route ultimately proved to be undoable because a notch stopped climbers from going any further.  So he explored and found another route.  This route starts behind the small norfolk pine tree near the middle of the photo below.

The route marked with arrows is extremely steep — ropes are necessary to scale the steepest sections and a mishap at the wrong moment could result in injury or death.  This route is not for the faint of heart and should only be attempted by experienced climbers.

Except for vog that reduced air clarity, conditions were great when we started our adventure.  Not a cloud shrouded the summit and there was almost no wind. Our 5-mile round trip to the top of the Koolau Mountains began on the Kuolani-Waianu trail where invasive albizia trees reach gargantuan size.  After hiking up the old dirt road where the ditch enters a tunnel, we contoured in and out of a number of gullies and ravines before reaching the base of the ridge we would climb to the summit.

The lower portions of the ridge were covered with uluhe ferns (Dicranopteris linearis).  After climbing up over the forest canopy, we had magnificent views of Kaneohe Bay and the Koolaupoko Coast.  Pete Clines, Drew Erickson, and August Smith turn around to see the view.

The ocean was so calm that the offshore island of Mokoli’i (Chinaman’s Hat) was partially reflected on the surface of the water.  When we gained the spine of the narrow ridge, the hardest part of the climb began.  Fortunately, there were many ohia trees, branches and roots to hold on to, and ropes helped scale the most dangerous inclines.

After ascending the dizzying heights holding on to ohia trees and anything rooted to the ridge, we could see clouds gathering at the summit.  I was only able to take a few shots before the clouds blocked our views.

Clouds dropped down and surrounded us in a thick pea-soup. But since we were on a narrow ridge that stuck out from the mountain, we climbed up through a passageway in the clouds.  It was so cool to climb up the corridor into a whole other world covered with moss.

The Koolau summit was covered with short trees no more than 4 feet high, mostly ohia (Metrosideros polymorpha), whose branches were covered with a thick growth of green moss.  The trees were spread over the landscape covering an area about 10 feet long and 6 feet wide.

The moss grew so profusely on some ohia branches that the trees effectively look like mounds of moss!   Ferns, ohelo, and other epiphytic native plants live in the moss right next to  bright green leaves of ohia.

When we reached the leeward side of the peak, we were surprised to feel the sun on us and to have a view!  We could see the upper reaches of Kipapa Valley with the Waianae Mountains off in the distance.  So we lingered for quite some time examining the plants in the area, having lunch, and relaxing.

Clusters of ohia lehua (Metrosideros polymorpha) flower buds unfurl themselves into red pompoms that add bright color and character to the moss mounds.

Moss mounds also grow on this lehua papa (Metrosideros rugosa), a species of ohia lehua endemic to Oahu.  Its leaves are hard to the touch, deeply furrowed, and can withstand the full brunt of the winds at the summit.

Several ohia ha, the native mountain apple (Syzigium sandwicensis), were covered with red fruits no more than half-an-inch across.  The fruits are edible and taste remotely like the mountain apple brought to Hawaii by the Polyneisans – ohia ai (Syzigium malaccensis).

Unfortunately all good things must come to an end and soon it was time for the dreaded descent which is always more difficult than the ascent.  Fortunately, ropes helped us descend the sheerest inclines and I breathed a sigh of relief when we cleared the most dangerous sections without incident.

The steepness decreased when we reached the uluhe section and I was pleased to be hiking on “normal” slopes again.

While making our way back out, I saw the Polynesian introduced mountain apple – ohia ai (Syzigium malaccensis), and was reminded of the 4 different kinds of ohia we saw today.  I also reflected on the cool moss covered ohia at the summit and how we clung to ohia roots, trunks, and branches to scale the steepest slopes to the top.  What a great adventure!

–

SOURCES

Native Hawaiian Plants, University of Hawaii, Department of Botany