Mabel Kekina — who founded the trail maintenance crew and conducted search and rescue missions for the club — loved Makapuʻu-TomTom for its spectacular views.  So much did she love this hike that she wanted her ashes to be scattered from a peak with a panoramic view of the Koʻolaupoko Coast of windward Oʻahu.

Her wishes were honored this past Sunday as waves of hikers made their way from the Makapuʻu Lookout up the spine of the Koʻolau Mountains.  Other hikers started from Kamehame Ridge to reach the designated meeting point — the hang glider jump-off spot.

Click on photo to enlarge

With clear blue skies overhead and nice tradewinds to keep us cool, the day was absolutely beautiful.  It did not take long to see magnificent views of Manana and Kaohikaipu (Rabbit and Turtle Islands) just offshore and Mokapu Peninsula way off in the distance.

With no big rain storms so far this winter, the landscape was brown, dry, and parched — very different from most other years when the mountains turn green.

Click on photo to see tiny hikers climbing to the top

The higher and further we got the more we were able to see the bowl-like crater on Manana which is not visible from sea level and can only be seen from higher elevations.

The plan was to scatter Mabel’s ashes from two spots along the trail.  We would first rendezvous at the hang glider jump-off spot to meet the Kekina family who were bringing Mabel’s ashes up from Kamehame Ridge.

There must have been at least 100 people at the hang glider jump-off spot.  The event was a reunion of sorts with many long time club members I had not seen in years and people from State Trails showing up to pay their respects.

Mabel requested that there be no obituary or memorial service, so club President Jay Feldman and Mabel’s son, Herman Kekina, made just a few brief remarks. Unfortunately, the winds on the windward side prevented the ashes from being scattered over the ocean from the jump-off spot, so Mabel’s ashes were scatterred on the leeward side overlooking Hawaiʻi Kai and Koko Crater.

We then hiked to the second spot — a non-descript peak just before the lunch spot in the ironwood trees which has a breathtaking view of the Koʻolaupoko Coast — a spot Mabel wished for her ashes to be spread — which we have now dubbed “Mabel’s Peak”.

June Miyasato was determined to scatter Mabel’s ashes on the windward side despite the near constant tradewinds.  So she waited for a lull in the wind before spreading the ashes.  A spontaneous applause erupted as the wind carried away the last of Mabel’s ashes.

After bidding farewell to Mabel’s family, we dropped down into the saddle at the foot of Mabel’s Peak where a hiker fell to his death in 2002.  It was very appropriate for Mabel’s ashes to be scattered from the peak overlooking this saddle — she cared deeply for lost/missing  hikers and coordinated many search and rescue missions to find them.  We then climbed up to the lunch spot under the shade of ironwood trees.

 Click on collage to enlarge

While we ate our lunches and relaxed in the ironwood grove, we shared the fond memories we had of Mabel to ease our sense of loss.  Although our mood was somber, Mabel left instructions that she did not want us to mourn her passing but to celebrate her life.

Click on photo to enlarge Mabel’s Peak — where her ashes were scattered

After lunch, we pushed-off from the ironwood grove where the spine of the Koʻolau Moutains makes an abrupt turn to form the back of Waimanalo.  We looked back at Mabel’s Peak one last time before pushing off on the spine towards the TomTom trail.

When we reached the giant electrical poles that mark TomTom Ridge, we veered-off the Koʻolau spine to descend the TomTom trail into Waimanalo.

While coming down TomTom I realized how appropriate it was for us to descend this trail today — an ancient Hawaiian route that was almost lost when traditional ways were dying after Western contact and the memory of the trail was fading.  After falling into disuse for about 75 years, the club rediscovered the old route in 1922 and has kept it open ever since — due in part to the tireless work of Mabel and the trail clearing crew she founded.

When we reached the foot of the Koʻolau Mountains we made our way to the HTMC clubhouse near the shores of Waimanalo Beach to rendezvous with the Kekina family for a potluck to reminisce and celebrate Mabel’s life.  

Happy trails to you Mabel.  Your memory will endure for the lasting contributions you have made to the community.  Thank you for all you have done.  We will miss you dearly.

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SOURCES/RELATED POSTS:

Mabel Kekina Passes Away – Happy Trails to You, Mabel Kekina

Mabel Kekina, A Celebration of Life, Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club

The Malaekahana Loop and Mabel’s Birthday

Makapuu-TomTom in the Vog

Hiker Killed Above Waimanalo, HTMC Newsletter, 2002

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Kawaiʻiki is one of several valley trails on the leeward side of the Koʻolau Mountains above Haleʻiwa constructed to service a ditch that transports irrigation water from the mountains to the lowlands.

The skies were overcast and a rainbow appeared overhead as the HTMC trail maintenance crew rendezvoused at Haleiwa Beach Park.  The group consolidated into a smaller number of vehicles and then drove up the dirt roads above Haleʻiwa.

The land is own by Kamehameha Schools and permission is granted to HTMC to hike Kawaiʻiki with the understanding that the club maintain the trail in good hiking condition by cutting back fast-growing vegetation and fallen trees.  The easiest way for hikers to do Kawaiʻiki is to go with HTMC or the Sierra Club who hike the trail once a year.

After driving for nearly 6 miles on the paved road constructed by the U.S. Army for the Stryker Brigade we parked near the old Palama Uka camp site.  We were blessed to see another rainbow overhead as we pushed-off from our vehicles to begin our hike on the dirt road.

The dirt road led to the start of the contour trail where many eucalyptus trees were planted as part of reforestation efforts in the early 1900′s.  The hike is about a 5 mile roundtrip and leads to a dam beyond which a series of freshwater pools flow from one to another.

We were joined by David Chatsuthiphan whose photos and webiste at Unreal Hawaii I have admired for quite some time.  We were also joined by Lei Yamasaki whose photo compositions are also awesome.

Invasive stawberry guava, fiddlewood, and clidemia are pervasive and we hacked at them with our machetes as we made our way into the valley.

But we also saw many endemic māmaki tree (Pipturus albidus) whose large leaves hung from above as we reached down to cut back invasive plants along the trail.

We also saw a number of hapuʻu tree ferns (Cibotium chamissoi) whose large fronds dangled over the trail.

One of the more interesting sights were ʻieʻie vines (Freycinetia arborea) with fruits.

When we came to a cement ditch we hiked on top a large pipe for a short distance before reaching a cement bridge that tranported water over the stream.

From the cement bridge, some of the group venured into a tunnel that emerged on the far side of the ridge.  But I chose not to crouch down in the tunnel and opted to hike up and over the ridge through ʻuluhe to the other side.

When we reached the dam on the far side of the ridge – which diverts stream water into the ditch — we reached the furthest extent of the contour trail and the hike transformed into a stream hike.

We crossed the stream multiple times passing several pools, all the while cutting back ginger, uluhe, and other fast growing vegetation that blocked the way.

When we reached the first big pool, where the club normally stops for lunch, we continued further upstream to the next pool which is even nicer.

Pete Clines and Chenay Borja were all smiles as they enjoyed the pool from a rock in the stream.

The water was inviting and several of us went for a dip in the pool.  The rest ate their lunches, enjoyed each others company, and relaxed along the edge of the pool.

Curiousity got the best of me and I ventured a little further upstream where I saw a number of kukui trees (Aleurites molucans) whose leaves and branches dangled over the water.

Backlit kukui leaves always catch my eye and I could not resist photographing them.

Time past quickly and soon it was time to leave.  So we picked ourselves up and hiked back out.  As we retraced our steps the way we came in, we admired the work of the mechanized crew who carried in heavy hedge trimmers and weed whackers.  Many thanks to Ralph Valentino, Grant Oka, Ken Suzuki, and Thomas Yoza, the trail is now wide open!

While making our way back our cars I reflected on the great time I had clearing the trail and enjoying the fresh water pools at Kawaiʻiki.  What a great place to cool-off!

–

SOURCES

Native Hawaiian Plants, University of Hawaii, Department of Botany

Plants of Hawaii, Hawaiian Ecosystems at Risk

Kawainui and Hamakua Marshes are the largest remaining wetlands in the Hawaiian Islands encompassing nearly 830 acres of land in Kailua.  The wetlands were designated as a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance in 2005 for their biological, historical, and cultural significance.  When it was announced that the State of Hawaiʻi signed an agreement with the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers in 2011 to start a new phase of wetlands restoration, I had to see the present state of restoration before the new initiative began.

The Division of Forestry and Wildlife (DOFAW) of the Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) of the State of Hawaiʻi and ʻAhahui Mālama I Ka Lōkahi began restoring parts of Kawainui and Hamakua Marshes in 1997.  Under the vision and inspiration of Chuck “Doc” Burrows, the retired Kamehameha Schools science teacher who founded ʻAhahui Mālama I Ka Lōkahi, teams of volunteers from various community groups focused their efforts at these locations.

• Nā Pōhaku o Hauwahine — an outcrop of boulders overlooking Kawainui marsh located 1 mile in on Kapaʻa Quarry Road on the makai side of the road
• Ulupō Heiau — a sacred site on the edge of Kawainui marsh, located next to the YMCA on Kailua Road accessible from Manu O’o Street
• Islets at Kaha Gardens — miniature islands in the Kawainui estuary located next to Kaha Gardens accessible from Kaha Street
• Hamakua Marsh — once a part of Kawainui Marsh but now separated by Kailua Road, located along Hamakua Drive

The restoration work at Nā Pōhaku o Hauwahine is impressive.  A network of trails leads from Kapaʻa Quarry Road to the top of an outcrop of boulders with a panoramic view of Kawainui Marsh, Olomana, and the surrounding area.  The site is dedicated to Hauwahine, the Hawaiian Moʻo goddess and guardian of Kawainui marsh.

Interconnected trails lead through areas once overrun by invasive plants such as haloe koa and fountain grass, and have been replanted with native dryland and polynesian introduced plants. Benches and chairs are scattered throughout the site to enable visitors to relax and enjoy the site.

Many native dryland plants — some of them endangered like this fragrant endemic naʻu or native gardenia (Gardenia brighamii) — have been outplanted.

One of the more eye-catching  sights were the bright yellow flowers of maʻo, the native cotton (gossypium tomentosum) which can be found in drier climates on the island.

The native coastal sandalwood ʻiliahiʻole (Santalum ellipticum) has also been planted at Nā Pōhaku o Hauwahine.  Sandalwood trees were indiscriminately cut down from Hawaii’s forests soon after Western contact and very few large trees remain today.

Many ʻilima flowers (Sida fallax) were in bloom as I explored the trails that crisscross the site.  A water catchment system has been built to capture and irrigate newly outplanted plants.  There are even bee hives which add to the ability of the plants to sustain and perpetuate themselves.

The trails lead to the base of the boulders where invasive cattails and other plants have been removed to create an open area of water.  Much of the marsh consists of deep water covered by a floating mat of vegetation.  A good deal of the restoration efforts involves opening up the clogged waterway of plants and peat (decomposing vegetation) to create open areas of standing water as habitat for native water birds.

Another site where impressive restoration work has been achieved is at Ulupō Heiau, one of the first sacred temples built as a “māpele” (agricultural heiau) by the original people or menehune. Dedicated to Kāneulupō, the site is blessed with natural springs and the system of auwai (irrigation ditches) has been restored which feed the loʻi (agricultural plots) with water where crops are cultivated.

The area surrounding the marsh and Ulupō Heiau was once productive in agriculture, feeding thousands of people with cultivated kalo (taro), ʻulu (breadfruit), ʻuala (sweet potato) and other crops.  It was nice seeing so many terraced loʻi being grown with different varieties of kalo. At the lower elevations of the site, the clogged wetlands have been cleared of vegetation and peat to create open areas of standing water for native waterbirds.

One of the most open areas of the marsh is next to Kaha Gardens where miniature islands are located in the estuary.  The site is part of the area created by an earthen dam built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers as a flood control project for Kailua.  Along much of the length of the embankment, a series of interconnected ponds have been created at the foot of the dam.

Again, much of the work involves removing vegetation from the waterway to create standing water for native waterbirds.  With the rushes, cattails and other invasive marsh plants dominating the landscape the work is never-ending and periodic work days must be scheduled to keep the water open.

Another open area is Hamakua Marsh which was once connected to Kawainui Marsh but was cut-off on the other side of the highway when the Kailua Road was constructed.  Considerable work has been made to clear the waterway of debris and to plant beach naupaka (Scaevola sericea), whose characteristic half-flowers often bloom in great numbers, along the edge of the stream.

Many of the indigenous and endemic Hawaiian waterbirds congregate in the open areas of water — several of which are endangered. The birds are endangered for a number of reasons. Loss of coastal wetlands to development and altered hydrology has reduced their habitat. Many of the remaining wetlands have become choked with invasive plants such as pickleweed, water hyacinth, and mangrove which greatly reduce the open water, mudflats, and shallow water the birds need. The birds are also vulnerable to predators — dogs, cats, rats, mongoose, black crowned night herons, cattle egrets, barn owls, and non-native fish.

One of the largest of the native waterbirds is the ʻaukuʻu or black crowned night heron (Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli).  The subspecies in Hawaii is found all over the world and is indigenous to the Hawaiian Islands.  Unlike the other subspecies which are active mostly at night, the subspecies in Hawaii is active during the day.

ʻAukuʻu often stand motionless in the trees waiting patiently for fish, frogs, mice, and the young of other native waterbirds to pass by upon which they swoop down from above.

Perhaps the rarest of the endemic waterbirds on Oʻahu is the koloa maoli duck (Anas wyvilliana) which is closely related to introduced mallard ducks.  In 2003, the koloa duck population was estimated to be 2,500 with 80% of them on Kauaʻi. The vast majority of the koloa ducks on Oʻahu have mated with mallard ducks and are hybrids — pure koloa ducks are extremely rare and endangered.  The ducks I photographed above are in all likelihood koloa-mallard hybrids.

Another endangered waterbird is the aeʻo or Hawaiian stilt (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni) which is endemic to Hawaiʻi.  The bird is related to stilts in North America but evolved into its own subspecies when the stilts found their way to the Hawaiian islands. In 2003, the aeʻo population in Hawaiʻi was estimated at 1,500 birds.

One of the more unusual endemic waterbirds is the ʻalae keʻo keʻo or Hawaiian coot (Fulica alai) which is black in color with a prominent white frontal shield and beak.  These endangered bird are secretive and build floating nests with aquatic vegetation anchored to stationary vegetation. In 2003, the ʻalae keʻo keʻo population was estimated to be between 2,500 and 4,000 birds.

The unusual thing about ʻalae keʻo keʻo is their big feet. They have odd looking flaps that extend on either side of their toes which increase the surface area of their feet just like how webbing does on the feet of ducks.

The most endangered of the endemic waterbirds is ʻalae ʻula or Hawaiian moorhen (Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis) which is mostly black in color with a prominent red frontal shield and beak that is yellow at the tip.  Unlike the feet of coots, the red and yellow feet of moorhen do not have any toe flaps. Hawaiian moorhen are endangered and rare — between 1993 and 2003, their average annual number hovered at just under 300 individuals.

While hiding behind a naupaka shrub, I was spell-bound to see a pair of  ʻalae ʻula swim ashore with their 5 chicks foraging for food.  It was the first time I had seen ʻalae ʻula chicks close up.  With bald red heads, bulging beady eyes, and straggly white beards, the chicks were so ugly they were cute.

While making my way out the marsh I reflected on the thousands of man hours put in to restore the native wetlands by DOFAW, DLNR, ʻAhahui Mālama I Ka Lōkahi, the Kawainui Heritage Foundation, Kailua Historical Society, Hawaii Thousand Friends, Hawaii Audubon Society, and Kailua Hawaiian Civic Club. Other groups who have provided support and funding include the US Fish and Wildlife Service, Ducks Unlimited, the National Fish and Wildlife Foundation, the Hawaii Community Foundation, the Harold K.L. Castle Foundation, Kalama Land Company, the Hawaii Chapter of The Wildlife Society, Pacific Coast Joint Venture, Ameron HC&D, and the Natural Resources Conservation Service. Legislators Jill Tokuda and Pono Chong have also provided support in the Hawaii legislature. Were it not for the commitment of these organizations and individuals, the birds would have less habitat and be even more imperiled. Many thanks for their aloha and kokua.

The new restoration initiative calls for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to remove alien weeds from the marsh and create 11 terraced shallow ponds protected from predators which is expected to cost between $4-6 million. It was very appropriate for me to see the vulnerable little chicks of the most endangered of the endemic waterbirds whose future hangs in the balance.  With more habitat being created at Kawainui Marsh in the near future there is much hope their numbers can rebound.

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SOURCES:

Ae‘o or Hawaiian Stilt, Division of Forestry, Division of Forestry and Wildlife, Department of Land and Natural Resources, State of Hawaii

‘Alae ‘Ula, Hawaiian Moorhen, Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis, Division of Forestry and Wildlife, Department of Land and Natural Resources, State of Hawaii

‘Alae Ke’o Ke’o, Hawaiian Coot, Fulica alai, Division of Forestry and Wildlife, Department of Land and Natural Resources, State of Hawaii

‘Auku‘u or Black-crowned Night Heron, Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli, Division of Forestry and Wildlife, Department of Land and Natural Resources, State of Hawaii

Koloa Maoli, Hawaiian Duck, Anas wyvilliana, Division of Forestry and Wildlife, Department of Land and Natural Resources, State of Hawaii

‘Ahahui Mālama I Ka Lōkahi, Hawaiians for the Conservation of Native Ecosystems

Hamakua Marsh, Audubon

Kaha Gardens – Hui o Ko’olaupoko – Ko`olaupoko watershed area

Kawainui Marsh Restoration About To Begin, KITV, Jul 29, 2011

Kawainui Marsh Restoration Planned, By Gary T. Kubota, Star Advertiser, Jul 30, 2011

Nā Pōhaku o Hauwahine (The rocks of Hauwahine) by Eric Guinther

Nā Pōhaku o Hauwahine (the rocks of Hauwahine)

Sites of Oahu by Elizabeth Sterling and Catherine Summers, Bishop Museum Press, Honolulu, Hawaii, 1978

Ulupō Heiau, State Parks, Department of Land and Natural Resources, State of Hawaii

Watcher of the Wetlands For Dave Smith, It’s All in the Details By Carol Chang, Go Kailua Magazine, November 23, 2011

Kawainui and Hamakua Marshes Designated as U.S. Ramsar Sites, April 4, 2005, Ramar Convention of Wetlands

Dr. Charles Burrows, Puana Ka Ika Lecture Series, The Kohala Learning Center

Ma‘o (Hawaiian Cotton), College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources

Iliahi, Hawaiian Sandalwood, Species Profiles for Pacific Island Agroforestry

Na’u, Native Gardenia, Native Plants of Hawaii

I first met Mabel in November 1997 when I joined the club to clear the Waianae-Kaala Trail.  Mabel was was 71 at the time and was a phenomenal hiker easily outpacing people half her age to the 4,000 foot summit of Mount Ka’ala — the highest peak on the island.

Mabel was loved by her crew.  The group threw a party for her on her 84th birthday.  Mabel always baked scrumptious desserts and fed her crew after each hike. She took a personal interest in her crew and many of us considered her a second mom.  Mabel loved to talk and I spent many an afternoon listening to her amusing and entertaining stories.

Mabel told me that she joined HTMC in 1983 and fell in love with the mountains immediately.  It did not take long for her to recognize a need — many of the trails were clogged with fast growing vegetation and fallen trees, and landslides made many trails dangerous.

Although she was new to the club at the time, Mabel’s people and organizational skills enabled her to create a trail maintenance crew in 1983.  Mabel has been leading this crew ever since for the past 29 years.

Mabel loved the water.  Whenever the hike led to a waterfall or pool, she would always splash under the waterfalls and dive into the pools.

But perhaps what was of greatest interest to Mabel was lost hikers.  Whenever the standard 3-day search period expired and the Police and Fire Departments stopped looking for lost hikers, Mabel jumped in to fill the void.  Motivated to help the families of lost hikers, she organized teams of volunteers to continue the search.  While many searches ended unhappily with only the remains of lost hikers found — a handful of them ended happily with the lost hikers found alive and well.  The most noteworthy being the rescue of two Danish girls who were trapped on the summit of Ohulehule for 8 days in 1999.

Mabel always wanted to learn the circumstances surrounding each rescue or fatal accident.  When I found the body of the Norwegian engineering professor off the Kealia Trail in May 2011, Mabel invited me to her home so she could learn all the details.  I saw that over the years, Mabel collected hundreds of newspaper clippings and interviewed dozens of people to better understand the psyche of lost hikers.

Mabel contracted lung cancer five years ago and had a lung removed. Although this greatly curtailed her hiking ability she still showed up for trail clearing each Sunday with baked goods and a cheerful disposition. Towards the end of 2011 a lung infection led to the build up fluid in her lungs which led to congestive heart failure. Mabel was in good spirits to the end and told those who visited her in her last days that she was happy. I cherish the memories I have of Mabel during her 84th birthday party enjoying her pig books and stuffed animals — she was very fond of cute little piggies.

Were it not for Mabel, many of Oʻahu’s trails would have been overwhelmed by fast growing vegetation, fallen trees, and landslides long ago. And many lost hikers would not have been found nor many bodies which enabled their families to reach closure. You will be sorely missed Mabel — thank you for all you have done. Happy trails to you.

Photo Credits:
Photo 1 – Nathan Yuen, Source: Nathan Yuen, 2011
Photo 2 – Unknown, Source: HTMC Archives – late 1990′s
Photo 3 – Unknown, Source: HTMC Archives – late 1990′s
Photo 4 – Unknown, Source: HTMC Archives – 1993
Photo 5 – Unknown, Source: HTMC Archives – 2001
Photo 6 – Jim Pushaw, Source: Jim Pushaw – 1999
Photo 7 – Nathan Yuen, Source Nathan Yuen, 2011
Video 8 – Nathan Yuen, Source Nathan Yuen, 2011

The Division of Forestry and Wildlife (DOFAW) of the Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) of the State of Hawaii and the Hawaii Nature Center began organizing teams of volunteers to restore Pouhala Marsh in December 2001.  Since 10 years have past since the first efforts were made, I had to return to see the progress being made to restore this coastal wetland. 

When I arrived at the end of Waipahu Depot Street across from the Honolulu Police Academy, I was pleased to see a good omen — a magnificent anuʻenuʻe (rainbow) arched over Pouhala Marsh from one end to the other.  Even more encouraging was how clear the stream and marsh were of old household appliances, furniture, tires and other urban trash and debris that once littered the landscape. 

Prior to the founding of suburban Waipahu, Pouhala Marsh was a productive wetland abundant in ‘ama’ama (mullet), o’ama (goatfish), and crabs.  The Hawaiians also cultivated kalo (taro) along Kapakahi and Waikele Streams which border and supply the wetlands with water.  When the plantations and sugar mill were founded, these wetlands were severely degraded by urban development, silt accumulation, water pollution, dumping and invasive species. 

Over the past ten years, encouraging progress has been made to reverse the damage and restore the wetland.  When I scanned the marsh I was thrilled to see roughly 150 endangered aeʻo or Hawaiian stilts (Himantopus mexicanus knudseni) wading in the shallow waters!  That last time I was here in June 2008, I saw 15 birds — but that was in the summer months when the marsh has much less water. I was pleased to see so many aeʻo here during the winter months.

Since I wanted to get a closer look at the birds in the marsh, I made by way over the mud flat much of which was covered in bird tracks — most of them aeʻo. 

Mud accumlated on the bottom of my spiked tabis and each step became more slippery than the next.  With so much mud on the bottom of my footwear, it almost became easier to slide across the mudflat to make my way to some shrubs I could hide behind to get a closer look at the shy and elusive water birds. 

During the rainy season, rainfall fills the wetland to its greatest extent and many aeʻo come to the Pouhala Marsh and other wetlands around Pearl Harbor.   

Since I arrived shortly after sunrise and it was still early in the morning, some of the aeʻo were still sleeping with their heads tucked under their wings. 

But many others had already stirred from their slumber and were hunting in the shallow water to feed on shrimps, crabs, and other tiny creatures to eat. 

While making my way towards the back of the marsh where mangroves and cattails have taken over, I tried to sneak up to some aeʻo but I was detected and they took to the air.  Aeʻo are wary of humans and call out to vocalize their displeasure at your presence.  If you get too close, they take to the air, circle and dive bomb intruders especially when protecting their eggs and young.

Fortunately, I was able to sneak up on this unsuspecting ae’o in the pickleweed and snapped this shot before it detected my presence.  Ae’o are graceful water birds with long slender pink legs.  They are believed to come from North America and have evolved into a distrinct subspecies in Hawai’i. Due to loss of habitat, ae’o are on the federal list of endangered species.

Another encouraging development was that many more native plants have been planted around the margins of the marsh than the last time I was here.  I was pleased to see the endangered ko’oloaula — the red ‘ilima (Abutilon menziesii) — in bloom with cute little red flowers. 

Also planted in the area between the mudflat and the stream were the sweetly scented shrubs of pohinahina — the beach vitex (Vitex rotundifolia) – which were in bloom with purple-blue flowers. 

Even more profusely in bloom were ʻilima papa (Sida fallax) which crawl over the ground with many yellow-orange flowers.  I also saw a number of wiliwili, naupaka, ma’o, hala and other native plants which have been planted around the edges of the marsh. 

Although good progress has been made restoring the native wetland, the work is never-ending.  The marsh is next to a refuse transfer station where people drop-off large items destined for the land fill.  When people arrive after hours when the transfer station closed, they sometimes dump their load thoughtlessly into the stream and marsh.  If you would like to take part in this effort to restore the stream and marsh, contact the Hawaii Nature Center at volunteer@hawaiinaturecenter.org.

Time past quickly and soon it was time to leave.  While making my way back out the marsh, I reflected on the thousands of man hours put in to transform the once de facto dump into a productive wetland again. It was very appropriate to see a rainbow over Pouhala Marsh — a symbol of hope and renewal — on this 10th anniversary. Impressive strides have been made to restore the wetland and hope springs eternal for another 10 years of great progress!

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SOURCES:

Ae‘o or Hawaiian Stilt, Division of Forestry, Department of Land and Natural Resources

Biodiversity of Freshwater and Estuarine Communities in Lower Pearl Harbor with Observations on Introduced Species, Final Report Repaired for the US Navy by the Hawaii Biological Survey, Bishop Musuem Technical Report No. 16, February 2000

Hawaii Wetlands Monitor, Vol 2, No. 1, March 2008

Hawaii Reporter Story on Pouhala Marsh

Honolulu Department of Environmental Services – Kapakahi Stream & Pouhala Marsh

Ilima, Sida Fallax, Wikipedia

Kooloaula, Red Ilima, National Tropical Botanical Garden

Pohinahina, Beach Vitex, Wikipedia

Sites of Oahu by Elizabeth Sterling and Catherine Summers, pg. 29, Bishop Museum Press, Honolulu, Hawaii, 1978

It was a rainy day and much of the island was covered with clouds as I drove towards Kaʻena Point — one of the driest parts of Oʻahu.  Only when I reached Makua Valley did the clouds open up to reveal nice blue skies.

Given that I had the beginnings of a cold, I was pleased to feel the warm sun as I pushed-off from the end of the paved road to hike on the old route taken by the OR&L train line to the north shore of the island.

One of the more eye-catching sights on the rocks was the empty carapace of an aʻama crab which outgrew and shed its shell that turned red when exposed to the heat of the sun.

Another interesting sight was ʻiliahiʻole — the coastal sandalwood (Santalum ellipticum) — which was in bloom with small light green-yellow flowers.  With the rainy season just starting I noticed that while the landscape was still brown, a handful of plants were beginning to perk up to the new found moisture.

While passing the sea arch along the rocky coast I saw a number of ʻilima papa (Sida fallax) in bloom with yellow-orange flowers.

When I reached the the natural area reserve where the predator-proof fence has just been completed, I caught up with a group of Waiʻanae boy scouts some of who were visiting Kaʻena Point for the very first time.

The fence is just under 7 feet high and stretches for about a mile to protect native sea birds and endangered plants on roughly 59 acres at the very tip of Kaʻena Point from dogs, cats, rats, and other predators.

While making my way along the fence a curious moli or laysan albastross (Phoebastria immutabilis) flew overhead to check me out.  Albatrosses come to Kaʻena Point each year to nest and raise their young.

Due to predation, the moli population at Kaʻena Point had been limited to only about several dozen birds.  With the fence built just this year more chicks should be able to make it to adulthood and hopefully increase their numbers.

While making my way over the landscape I saw a rare form of ʻakoko (Euphorbia celastroides kaenana) that crawls prostrate over the ground.  This plant is endangered with only about 10 populations known on the island.

When I examined the plant up close, I was pleased to see tiny flowers and the beginnings of cute little fruit.

The Hawaiian monk seals are always a delight to see at Kaʻena Point.  I saw three seals (Monachus schauslandii) known in Hawaiian as ‘ilio holo I ka uaua — the dog that runs in rough water — in and around a series of tide pools at the tip of the point.

The seals looked so content and relaxed that I envied their daily routine in and along the tide pools — what a life!

Time flew by quickly and soon it was time to leave.  So I made my way out of the natural area reserve and retraced my steps back out the dirt road to Keawaʻula.

While making my way back on the dirt road, rain clouds blew and a light drizzle descended.  Within the next month or so, the big winter storms should begin drenching Kaʻena Point and turn the landscape from brown to green. Can’t wait to see the transformation!

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SOURCES

Coastal Sandalwood, Santalum ellipticum, Iliahialoe, Wikipedia

Euphorbia celastroides, Wikipedia

Hawaiian Monk Seal, US Fish and Wildlife

Laysan Albatross, Wikipedia

Native Hawaiian Plants, University of Hawaii, Department of Botany

Plants of Hawaii, Hawaiian Ecosystems at Risk

John Braum, Clayton Kong, Baron Yamamoto, Cory Yap and I went to explore the hanging valley above Kaliuwaʻa (Sacred Falls) which cannot be directly accessed from sea level due to steep canyon walls carved into the mountain over which a series of tall waterfalls plunge.  So we took a long circuitous route from the end of Hauʻula Homestead Road and hiked up Maʻakua Ridge Trail.

Pushing off at first light, we made our way up several switchbacks through groves of invasive christmas berry and formosan koa to gain the top of the ridge.   When the Maʻakua Ridge Trail turns off the ridge, we left the State trail by continuing up the ridge line to venture further mauka where the vegetation becomes much more native.

We made our way past a number of large ʻōhiʻa trees covered with mosses, ferns, and ʻieʻie vines as we gained elevation on the ridge top.

One of the more interesting sights along the trail was an unusual form of koʻokoʻolau (Bidens campylotheca) whose compound flowers are comprised of dozens of tiny little flowers that form a ball-like dome.

When we reached the saddle, we descended and then climbed back up to regain the elevation we had lost huffing and puffing all the way.  But we were lucky that the wind kept us cool as we continued our mauka climb to the junction with Waiʻahilahila Ridge and the Kamapuaʻa Trail at about 1,900 feet elevation.

We had a commanding view of Hauʻula, Laʻie Point, and the Koʻolauloa Coast as we climbed up Papali Ridge from peak to peak gaining further elevation. Clouds blew in and soon the ridge tops were shrouded in a cold wet mist.

When we reached about 2,400 feet elevation, we stumbled on a koliʻi (Trematolobelia macrostachys) that had multiple sprays of flowers.

Each spray had several dozen flowers which open just a handful at a time starting from the inner most part of the stalk working their way to the tip.

We admired looking up close at the irregularly shaped petals. What a spectacular sight!

When we reached the junction with the Castle Trail we were thrilled that we could see our destination — upper Kaluanui Stream!   We wasted little time on the contour trail and dropped down from Papali Ridge into the hanging valley carved by the stream.

Clouds tickled the mountain tops as we descended the contour trail into the hanging valley.  Many thanks to the trail clearing efforts of the Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club, the Castle Trail was wide open and we made good time dropping down to the stream at about 2,000 feet elevation.

When we reached the stream, wind blew down the entire length of the valley and it was cold.  I parted ways with the group who headed downstream to see the waterfalls.  Since I had previously explored downstream and I opted to head upstream instead to see what kind of native plants and animals I might encounter.

One of the more amazing creatures were small ʻopae kalaole or mountain shrimps (Atyoida bisulcata) about an inch long who undergo a fascinating life cycle.  ʻOpae mate and lay their eggs in the stream whose larvae hatch and are washed down stream into the ocean.  After spending a larval stage in the ocean, they migrate upstream and climb multiple waterfalls — some of them several hundred feet tall — to reach this hanging valley 2,000 feet up in the mountains!

While hopping from from rock to rock in the stream, I saw a number of pinao or native damselfies (Megalagrion sp) which darted about the stream.  They were mostly black in color but had curious looking eyes that were half blue and half red.  They also had a long segmented abdomen that was mostly black but red at the tip.

Many kokio keʻo keʻo or native hibiscus trees (Hibiscus arnottianus punaluuensis) grew along side the stream.  I was pleased to see a number of them in bloom with large white flowers 4-6 inches across with pinkish red stamenal columns.

Some of the ʻōhiʻa trees along the banks of the stream were just covered with a profuse growth of shaggy mosses and cute little ferns.

When I turned over the curled over leaves of alani (Melicope sp.), I saw a number of cute little pupu kuahiwi — succineid snails — which seek shelter on the underside of leaves.

The stream meandered around multiple bends as I rock hopped for quite some distance. I ventured up a couple of tributaries that fed the main stream and came to a cascading waterfall about 35 feet tall.

After admiring a large pilo (Coprosma sp) tree at the base of the falls, I found a way to climb up the waterfall and made my way further upstream.

One of the more unexpected sights was a koliʻi growing as an epiphyte on a large ʻōhiʻa tree along the stream.  Its flowers were a much paler shade of pink than the other koliʻi we had seen on the ridge top earlier in the day.

Clouds dropped down to fill the hanging valley with a cold eerie mist and rain fell from the skies. But the rain did not last long and I pushed onwards admiring the many loulu palms (Pritchardia martii) along side the stream.

Several of the native fan palms had yellow flowers and green fruits which I have been told taste very much like coconut.

When I reached the appointed turn around time, I had reached a section dominated by a form of loulu with a much taller trunk which I speculate must be a different species.  I reached the furthest I could go given the time constraint and had to turn around.

The mists became thicker as I returned downstream to rendezvous with the others.

After reuniting with my hiking buddies we wasted little time climbing back up to Papali Ridge in order to generate badly needed body heat.

The wind was even stronger and colder on Papali Ridge which motivated us to set a blistering pace as we made our way back out the way we had come.  With daylight waning as we descended from ridge to ridge, I reflected on the great time we had exploring the upper reaches of Kaluanui Stream and experiencing one of few places on Oʻahu where you can explore a native stream in the clouds.  What a great place to visit!

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SOURCES

Hawai`i Native Stream Animals, Division of Aquatic Resources, Department of Land and Natural Resources, State of Hawaii

Hawaiian hibiscus, Wikipedia

Native Hawaiian Plants, University of Hawaii, Department of Botany

Plants of Hawaii, Hawaiian Ecosystems at Risk

The Pauoa Woods Loop makes use of three trails in the Honolulu Mauka System of Trails — the Kalawahine, Pauoa Flats, and Nuuanu Trails — and tacks on a couple of HTMC  maintained trails that drops down into the very back of Pauoa Valley and loops back to the starting point.  Since the HTMC trails can be accessed from multiple points we broke up into smaller groups so we could clear the route from multiple directions.

The group I joined wielded hand tools and we pushed-off from the Kalawahine Trail at the top of Tantalus.  It was cloudy and windy, and rain fell multiple times as we made our way on the trail. Fortunately, none of the rain showers lasted for very long but they drenched the landscape and made the trail muddy and slippery.

While hiking up the Kalawahine trail, we stopped briefly to admire a large banyan tree with impressive roots that grew from a large boulder on the side of the trail.

When we reached the Pauoa Flats Trail, tall ficus trees blocked much of the light and made the forest dark.  Roots snake their way over the broad trail and we had to take special care to watch our footing over the roots.

When we reached the end of the Pauoa Flats Trail that overlooks upper Nuuanu Valley and the reservoir, strong winds swept down the valley.  After admiring the view for a bit, we took out our machetes and sickles out to start our trail clearing work for the day.

We climbed up on the ridge line heading south towards Honolulu on the ridge where electrical poles have been installed.  The trail was in decent condition but we nonetheless hacked at the uluhe ferns that encroached on the margins of the trail to widen the path.

While cutting back the vegetation, the sound of a weed whacking grew louder.   Soon we ran into Kenji Suzuki who took an alternate route on the Nuuanu Trail to clear the ridge line trail from the opposite direction.

Once we reached Kenji, we put our tools away and enjoyed the work he did to blast the trail wide open.

When we reached the junction with the Nuuanu Trail we continued south on the Nuuanu Trail for quite some distance until we reached a hairpin turn where we veered-off and made our way down the Pacific Heights Ridge.

Invasive plants like formosan koa, iron wood, and clidemia blocked certain sections of the trail.  So we took out our machetes, sickles, and handsaws to clear the trail of vegetation, fallen trees, and other obstructions.

When we reached the lunch spot in a grove of ironwood trees and thorny asparagus ferns, we stopped for while to eat lunch.  But it was windy and cold, so we did not stay for long and continued on our way.  From the lunch spot we headed north to begin a gradual descent into Pauoa Valley.

Much of the trail contours along a water pipe under big old mango trees and clumps of giant bamboo.

When we reached the valley floor to the stream, the trail became less distinct so we made sure to clear and mark the trail to make the way forward more obvious.

Due to the rain, the stream water was milky brown in color.  It was green and lush as we made our way up along the stream and we saw lots of moss and maiden hair ferns.

After passing a number of rock walls we began the climb back up to Tantalus through groves of bamboo.

Due to the intermittent rain all day, the normally dry waterfall had water!  I admired the twin falls for quite some time — this was the first time I saw the waterfall flowing — and then continued the uphill climb to Tantalus.

When we made our way back up to Tantalus and turned right on the Kalawahine Trail we first heard and then saw a number of Shama Thrushes. Several of them were calling to each other with a most charming song.

While making our way back out the Kalawahine Trail to our cars, I reflected on the great time I had clearing the Pauoa Woods Loop, hiking in the lush green landscape, and seeing the birds calling out to each other.  What a great little loop!

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SOURCES

Native Hawaiian Plants, University of Hawaii, Department of Botany

Plants of Hawaii, Hawaiian Ecosystems at Risk

There are 2 loop trails on Hauʻula Uka Ridge: the Hauʻula Loop — a 2.5 mile loop State Trail, and the Hauʻula Uka Loop — a longer 7 mile loop that used to be on the HTMC hike schedule but no longer is.

Justin Ohara and I pushed off from Hauʻula Homestead Road and made our way past the Hunter/Hiker Check-in Station Mailbox and turned onto the first obvious trail to the right.  Both loops start at the same place but the longer loop veers mauka on the ridge line while the shorter loop turns makai.

The State Trail is nicely maintained by Na Ala Hele.  Some of the trees were bent over the trail and were fun to go over.  After gradually gaining several hundred feet elevation we got to the ridge line.  We briefly descended into the gully before us and climbed to the next ridge over.  When we got to the top, we veered-off the State Loop by turning left to continue up the ridge line.

We past some curious looking trees with multiple thick trunks that branched low to the ground.  We made our way up a series of small hills dominated by introduced vegetation that became more native and thicker the higher we got.

One of the cool things we saw were mounds of white lichen that were soft and spongy to the touch covering the ground.

Since the trail is no longer cleared by HTMC, only a swath exists and we had to push our way through the uluhe.  We enjoyed seeing many forms of ʻōhiʻa, some of them in bloom with red flowers, as we made our way up the ridge line.

When I turned the fronds of ʻuluhe over, I noticed that some were sporulating. It was cool to look close up at at the white dots on the backside.

Each dot was actually a cluster of small balls — sori — the spore producing structures.

Wawaeʻiʻole or club moss (Lycopodiella cernua) dotted the landscape which was dominated by ʻuluhe.

ʻUluhe impeded our progress as we marched up the ridge with red lehua blossoms above.  The adjacent ridge connected to the ridge we were on further mauka which we would take as part of our loop.

We saw a number of kawaʻu trees (Ilex anomanlum) growing next to ʻōhiʻa trees.

Some of the kawaʻu were in bloom with small white flowers.

We were pleased that some of the ʻōhiʻa trees were in bloom with red flowers.

We could see the adjacent ridges coming together as we climbed from one hill to the next.  We saw the imbricata form of ʻōhiʻa whose leaves are stacked along the entire length of the branch.

When we reached where the two ridge connect we rested to admire the view and eat lunch.  We could see Laʻie Point and the five offshore islands along the coast.  What a fantastic sight!

We saw a number of hoʻawa (Pittosporum) whose fruits resembled walnuts, on the return leg of our loop.

The return leg of the loop was overgrown too but a swath still existed and we pushed through the ʻuluhe until we entered introduced forests of iron wood trees, strawberry guava, and other invasive trees.  The trail is a nice loop but needs to be cleared — one big trail clearing effort should do the trick.

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SOURCES

Native Hawaiian Plants, University of Hawaii, Department of Botany

Plants of Hawaii, Hawaiian Ecosystems at Risk

This was the second attempt in two weeks to clear the trail to Ohulehule.  The crew was thwarted the previous week by big rain storms that flooded Kahana.

But the weather was better today.  Patches of blue sky over Ohulehule gave hope that the clouds would blow over. Especially hopeful was when the sunlight illuminated Ohulehule as I drove from Waikane to Kahana.

Kahana Valley was cloudy as we pushed-off from the parking area and made our way to the stream crossing at the dam on Kahana Stream.  The water was clear and was flowing nicely over the dam at the usual water level.  Just one week before muddy run-off overwhelmed the stream and dam crossing at this spot.

The previous week, torrential rain flooded the stream — the dam is not visible.  John Braum told us that at noon the week before the stream level had risen to the last stone on masonry rock wall.  The water flow was strong with eddies swirling at the surface.  We were lucky today that the weather was much nicer today than it was last week when heavy rains hit Kahana Valley.

The white line approximates the water level one week to the level of the last stone on the masonry wall.  The torrential rains had flushed and cleansed the valley so thoroughly last week that the stream water today was nearly crystal clear.

After making our way through a forest of invasive trees we got to the second stream crossing.  A rain squall blew in and blessed us with with rain as we made the second stream crossing. The water was much deeper than usual — last weeks rain scoured the stream bed.

We hiked through groves of hala trees (Pandanus tectorius) which thrive throughout Kahana Valley along with uluhe ferns.

We saw a number of brightly colored hala fruit on the ground which had fallen apart and showed the color of the ripening fruit on the inside.

When we reached the burnt clearing where koa sapplings dominate the landscape, we could see the summit of Ohulehule coming up to us.

Some of the ohia trees reach impressive size and are covered with mounds of moss.

The seeds and foliage of Koa trees dangle over a uluhe landscape.  One year ago, the trail was 4 feet wide.  Although the trail was still very much passable I was surprised how thickly the uluhe had grown back in one year.

Uluhe growth was so fast on some slopes that our forward progress was slowed by the thick growth.

When we reached the ridge that leads to the Waikane Saddle, we began the slow climb up through groves of hala trees.

We hacked at uluhe, clidemia, and ardesia as made our way upslope.  The views became better the higher above Kahana Valley we got on the trail to the Waikane Saddle.

We were pleased to see the Kahana Sphinx on a neighboring ridge — a good omen to see on the way to Ohulehule.

Several rain squalls swept in from the ocean and blew over Kahana Valley. Fortunately, the squalls did not last long and we had rain gear.  The rain did however, make the climb much more muddy and slippery.

The steepness increased as we reached the summit and got to the rope/strap section — the steepest part of the climb.

When we completed the steep climb, I saw lehua papa trees in bloom along the summit ridge to the top.

The leaves of lehua papa (Metrosideros rugosa) are thick and furrowed.  Clouds often shroud the summit of Ohulehule which favors the growth of moss on the trees.  After a brief shower at the summit, the clouds opened-up!

We were amazed to see how green the landscape was!  The view of Kanehoalani, Mokolii (Chinaman’s Hat) and Molii Fishpond with lehua and ieie in the foreground was awesome!  Unfortunately, the clouds blew-in, blocked all views, and the time came for us to leave.

We descended through patches of kopiko trees some of which were covered in moss.

After descending the ridge line to the valley floor, we retraced our steps back down the trail and saw the work of the weed whackers who blasted the trail 4 feet wide again.

While making our way back to the stream crossing at the dam, I reflected on the great time I had clearing the trail to Ohulehule, seeing the Kahana Sphinx, and admiring the views between rain squalls.  I am happy to report that the trail to the summit is wide open again!

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SOURCES

Native Hawaiian Plants, University of Hawaii, Department of Botany

Plants of Hawaii, Hawaiian Ecosystems at Risk