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Backpacking to Waimanu Valley
Posted: July 12, 2010
I went on a 3-day backpacking adventure to Waimanu Valley on the Big Island with 7 of my hiking buddies from the Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club (HTMC).
Waimanu Valley is located on an isolated stretch of the Hamakua-Kohala Coast where the landscape alternates between deep valleys with spectacular black sand beaches and thousand foot sea cliffs with charming gulches, streams, and waterfalls. Our plan for the 3-day trek — which gains and loses 3,600 feet of elevation – was to backpack 9-miles from Waipio Valley to Waimanu Valley on day 1, spend 2 nights in Waimanu Valley, and then backpack 9-miles out on the 3rd day.
- Photo courtesy of Grace Gabriel
Since the car rental company upgraded one of our vehicles to a 4WD Jeep SUV, August Smith and I drove down the steep road to drop-off the backpacks at the bottom while the rest of the gang — from left to right: Nikolaj Nordkvist, Pete Clines, Kevin English, Eva Kennedy, Grace Gabriel, and Miyo Kimura — took this group shot at the Waipio Valley lookout before dropping-down to the valley floor below.
After driving back up from the valley floor to the lookout, Pete and I drove our vehicles to the art gallery about half-a-mile back on Kukuihaele Road to park for $15 per night per vehicle. We then hastened back to the lookout where we dropped down into Waipio Valley to join the others at the stream. As we descended the steep road into historic Waipio Valley we could clearly see the Z-Trail – the switchbacks on the far side of the valley — the most demanding part of the 9-mile trek for the day. The yellow arrows on the photo above parallel the switchbacks as they gain about 1,200 feet of elevation.
Crossing Wailoa Stream can be harrowing when swollen with rain. While the stream flow was not excessive and we were able to cross with minimal difficulty, we could feel the power of the rushing water as we made our way over rocks in the stream bed to the other side. Prodigious rainfall and fertile soil make Waipio Valley a productive site for kalo (taro) cultivation — the valley supported the largest population of Hawaiians prior to Western contact.
After hiking along the expanse of black sand for which Waipio Valley is renown, we made our way to the far side of the valley to the base of the 1,200 foot sea cliffs and began our travail up the Z-Trail. The art of backpacking entails finding the proper trade-off between comfort at the campsite and ease on the trail. With the sun beating down and little breeze to cool us off, several of us questioned whether we really needed everything we packed as we huffed and puffed our way up the switchbacks.
When we reached the top of the switchbacks, we stopped to admire the deep blue ocean, black sand beach, and lush green Waipio Valley before continuing on the next phase of our trek — the Muliwai Trail. The Muliwai trail contours in and out of a dozen or so gullies carved by small streams — losing and gaining several hundred feet of elevation each time. The trail is nicely shaded by groves of ironwood, eucalytus, rubber, and other introduced trees.
After passing the first helipad — which was so overgrown that no helicopter could possibly land — we were pleased to reach a quaint little waterfall and pool. The pool was surprisingly deep for its small size and the water was refreshingly cold. Grace and several others jumped in the pool to cool-off while Nikolaj and the rest of the gang relaxed along the edge.
Enjoying ourselves at the pool for quite some time, we reluctantly pushed-off from the waterfall to resume our trek on the Muliwai Trail. As we made our down the trail we passed many ferns and mosses in the understory of large trees overhead.
While contouring up and down through several gullies and passing two more helipads, I saw a number of well-constructed bird nests — many of which were camouflaged with moss on the outside to better blend-in with the surroundings.
There is no shortage of drinking water along the Muliwai Trail — running steams flow in many of the gullies along the way. Those of us who have an aversion to the taste of treated water filtered the stream water while those who were too lazy to go through the filtering process treated the water with iodine or chlorine tablets.
Many of the trees along the trail are huge and stood over a hundred feet up in the air. While the vast majority of the trees were introduced, I saw a number of native trees and plants such a ohia lehua, lama, and kopiko.
- Photo courtesy of Grace Gabriel
We were pleased when we reached the shelter because we knew we were getting close our destination for the day. We rested briefly under the shelter and then continued on to Waimanu Valley which is just 2-1/2 miles further along the trail.
After contouring through the last few gullies and passing the 4th and final helipad we were thrilled when we rounded the corner and caught sight of our destination — Waimanu Valley! The valley looks very much like Waipio Valley — and is like a smaller version — it has the same tall sea cliffs, black sand beaches, and impressive waterfalls and streams!
One of the most spectacular sights in Waimanu Valley is impressive Waiilikahi Falls which cascades a thousand feet through a series of pools before making its final plunge to the valley floor below. I was captivated by this view of the waterfall as the afternoon sun illuminated kukui (Aleurites moluccans) and hala (Pandanus tectorius) trees growing along the trail.
Grassy wetlands dominate the front of Waimanu Vlley where the stream snakes its way to the shoreline and empties into the ocean.
When we reached the stream and crossed where a rope has been installed, we were thrilled to reach our destination — the campsites at Waimanu! By the time we arrived, many other backpackers and kayakers had already staked out their campsites. So we quickly unpacked and set-up our tents.
Our campsite under large ironwood trees along the stream was one of the best spots in the valley. We were treated to an unobstructed view of the lush green valley where we could admire Waiilikahi Falls.
After bathing and acquainting ourselves with our surroundings, the sun began to set and our campsite bustled with activity as we made dinner and prepared for the evening. When darkness descended we took turns sharing amusing stories — the more inappropriate the better — before turning in for the night.
The next installment where we hike to the base of Waiilikahi falls is here.
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SOURCES
Hawaiian Damselflies and Dragonflies, Bishop Museum
Native Hawaiian Plants, Department of Botany, University of Hawaii
Waimanu Valley, The Backpackers Guide to Hawaii, Stuart Ball
Hi Nate!
I guess I have always contacted you through your website because I don’t have another e-mail address for you. It was fortunate though, because your trip to Waimanu valley brought back memories. I have done the trip twice and made it all the way only once (long story). The river crossing was shoulder high. I didn’t know about the helipads, and yes the Z trail was killer.
Congrats on the great newspaper article. Did it create lots of hits on your site? I hope so. I also e-mailed Vince that we were interested in counting snails again. Keep our fingers crossed. Have a great day!
Aloha,
Bob Wai
Didn’t find the cave behind the waterfall?!! Maybe next time! Great journal/photos; looks like a fun group. Mahalo, Drew