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Backpacking Out from Waimanu
Posted: July 19, 2010
On the third and final day of our Waimanu adventure, the plan was to breakdown camp first thing in the morning and to backpack 9-miles to Waipio Valley — returning the way we had come.
During the night and early morning, a light rain descended on our campsite several times. When we awoke and ate breakfast, the remnants of misty showers shrouded the very back of the valley.
Grace, Eva, and Pete enjoy a hot cup of coffee at our campsite next to the stream. We sat on several logs and tree stumps carved into chairs with backrests.
After breaking down camp and packing my gear, I reclined and relaxed for one last time to admire magnificent Waimanu Valley as I waited for the others to get ready. When the clouds lifted from the back of the valley we could see that the waterfalls against the very back of the valley were even bigger today! Last night’s rain added greatly to the volume water.
Clouds blocked the sun light when we pushed off from camp and crossed the stream. We noticed that the water flow was considerably greater due to the rain the night before but we were all able to cross the stream without incident and began the big climb back out.
Since August and I were intent on photographing the valley in the early morning sun, we eagerly made our way up the switchbacks. As we climbed up the trail, August picked a few large mamaki leaves (Pipturus sp.) nearly 10 inches long which he intended to dry and brew into tea when we returned home.
While making our way up the switchbacks the clouds began to clear and the sun began to illuminate the landscape. I was thrilled to see spectacular views of the sea cliffs at the front of the valley framed by indigenous hala trees (Pandanus tectorius).
The switchbacks also provided a great vantage point to see the many waterfalls in Waimanu Valley — especially the ones against the far wall of the valley that were much more prominent due to the previous night’s rain.
The clouds began to dissipate and the sun broke through bathing the kukui trees (Aleurites moluccan) and ti plants (Cordyline fruticosa) in a spectacular golden light.
While climbing up the switchbacks a native damselfly (Megalagrion sp.) caught my attention! These damselflies are about 2 inches long and are endemic to Hawaii. I saw a number of them hoovering and darting about as we climbed up the trail.
The clouds completely lifted by the time we reached the top of the 1,200 foot switchbacks, and we were treated to clear blues skies! After catching one last look at magnificent Waimanu Valley, we turned the corner and contoured our way along the Muliwai Trail back towards Waipio Valley.
Our loads were much lighter on the return leg our our backpacking trip since we consumed nearly all our food and got rid of unnecessary items before we left.
When we reached the shelter, we stopped for a bit to relax before continuing on. The shelter makes a great camping spot for anyone caught in bad weather between Waipio and Waimanu.
We contoured our way through dozens of gullies along the way losing and gaining several hundred feet of elevation each time.
When we reached a quaint little stream, I admired the profuse growth of ferns along the edge as I refilled my drinking water for the return trip.
The nice thing about the Muliwai Trail is that large trees shade the entire way making the trek cool and pleasant.
When we reached the quaint waterfall and pool, we cooled-off in the cold refreshing water and refilled out water bottles for the final leg of our trek.
The pool was so pleasant that we ate lunch and relaxed for quite some time before resuming our way along the trail.
- Photo Courtesy of Grace Gabriel
After passing the last of 4 helipads, we finally reached Waipio Valley and caught the tail end of light rain showers that shrouded the valley in a gentle mist.
Within a matter of 5 minutes as we descended the series of switchbacks on the Z-Trail, the mists receded to the back of the valley and the sun broke through — illuminating the landscape in sunlight once again. Far on the other side of the valley we could see the road we could have to climb up.
After dropping down the switchbacks to reach the bottom of the valley, we made our way along the large expanse of black sand under the shade of iron wood trees.
August and I learned first hand why its better to cross the stream closer to the ocean where the stream is shallower and the force of the water spread out over a larger area. The stream flow at the narrow spot we selected was considerably stronger and much more difficult to cross.
After making our way along the coast we turned towards the back of the valley and then turned up the steep road to climb back up to our vehicles at the art gallery. We then drove to Laupahoehoe Park to shower and prepare for the return home.
- Photo courtesy of Grace Gabriel
After eating dinner in Hilo and heading to the airport, we flew back to Honolulu to resume our normal lives. As we headed back home, I reflected on the great time we had backpacking to Waimanu Valley, admiring the beauty of the Hamakua-Kohala Coast, and having a great time with the “Mix Plate” gang. What a great trip!
This is the last of 3 articles about my backpacking trip to Waimanu Valley. The previous 2nd post is here.
HEALTH WARNING: The day after we returned from Waimanu Valley, Eva noticed what started out as a small pimple on her leg become increasingly painful, swollen, and inflamed over the course of 7 days — causing her to see a doctor. The doctor said Eva had a staph infection, cut open the sore to drain the fluids, and prescribed such a strong dose of antibiotics that the pharmacist felt compelled to confirm the dosage with the doctor. The doctor told Eva that had the infection gotten any worse it could possibly lead to amputation. Fortunately, the infection responded well to the strong dose of antibiotics and Eva’s leg is healing nicely. If anyone gets an infection from Waimanu or anywhere else for that matter, get it treated right away.
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SOURCES
Hawaiian Damselflies and Dragonflies, Bishop Museum
Native Hawaiian Plants, Department of Botany, University of Hawaii
Waimanu Valley, The Backpackers Guide to Hawaii, Stuart Ball
Fantastic write up Nate. Your photos and captions were very enticing and make me feel like I was alongside you guys.
Thank you for sharing!
I’ve been exchanging email from someone who just returned from Waimanu on Sunday (July 18) and who noticed the beginnings of an infection the next day just like Eva. Started out as small pimples on the legs and progressed rapidly — grew by the hour! Apparently there are some nasty microbes at Waimanu. Not to be alarmist but I would suspect they’re elsewhere too. If anyone gets anything like this, get it checked right away!
My son just got back from Maui/Hana on August 4th. Both of his feet are infected and the infection was beginning to travel up his leg! His symptoms were swollen feet/ankles, painful to walk, and the tops of his feet were purple-ish colored. He recalls having stepped on a bed of coral by accident, however, he did not think the skin was broken. Not certain that the coral was the source of the infection. He ended up in the emergency room, just began antibiotics. Very nice photos you took, Nate!
Whoa… glad you took him to the ER. There are some nasty microbes out there. Gotta get the antibiotic treatments started as soon as possible! Hope he responds well to the treatment!
Nathan – Awesome write-up and incredible pictures/descriptions. I’ve learned quite a bit just by reading about your adventure.
I have a site reservation and plans to undertake this hike in Sept. I have a few questions about your experience and am seeking a little advice from somebody who has recently completed the hike. If you have time and are willing, send me an email at gmhokie at gmail.
Mahalo,
Greg
We hiked this as planned on Sept 3-4. What a hike! So beautiful, but our calf muscles paid dearly! The descent into Waimanu was the toughest part for us. Many great sights along the way, just as your pictures indicate.
Fortunately we didn’t have any staph incidents. Thanks to your account (and the comments) we went in stocked with antibiotic hand wipes to clean any scrapes, etc. We also stayed clear of the shelter.
Thanks again for posting your pictures and write-up. Great motivation for us!
I also just returned from this fabulous hike, and also thank you for the great photos and plant and animal names as well! A couple more cautions – filtering water alone does not remove leptospirosis, which is a bacteria well known to be in the valleys, 1 micron in size, and must be treated by boiling, iodine, chlorine or UV. Also, beware of falling rocks when playing in the waterfall. On our trip we met a Hawaiian man who’s great-great grandparents lived in Waimanu and he said they were never allowed to swim there (although they secretly did) due to the danger of falling rocks. The rocks are very friable – amazing your friend was able to climb up them. Ok that’s all for the warnings – a truly special, humbling and beautiful place!!